Hand finishing
We spend more time with each watch than most of our collectors do.
We think that, as far as watchmaking is concerned, hand decoration is the highest discipline. It’s where true horological value is created. Where scientific precision meets artistic mastery. In our timepieces, each part undergoes meticulous finishing processes, performed by our dedicated team of specialists.
In fact, the hand decoration of a single movement can take several hundred hours. While every surface receives the same level of attention, whether visible or hidden, each technique serves both an aesthetic and functional purpose. Discover the finishing processes that transform our timepieces into mechanical art.
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Hand-polished bevels: where light meets handcrafted skill.
In the finest tradition of high horology, we polish bevels by hand, shaping the edges of components like main plates and bridges. In a first step, our specialized finishing experts shape and pre-polish the bevels with very fine files. They then refine the finish with gentian wood and increasingly fine diamond pastes. Dozens of hours can be spent bevelling and polishing the bridges and plates of a single movement. That’s why we give our watchmakers the time they need to achieve perfectly hand-polished bevels. Every spot, scratch, and trace of machining must be carefully removed, and the beveling must be flat and smooth. No wobbling, no wavering, no compromise.
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Black polishing: the art of the perfect reflection.
Ever wondered what perfection looks like? For us, it’s a black-polished steel surface so smooth it acts like a mirror. Creating this finish requires ultimate attention – one wrong move and you have to start over. Our watchmakers begin with diamond paper, then carefully dance the component across a special tin plate with diamond paste. The pressure must be just right – too much or too little, and hours of work disappear. Why go to such lengths? Because when you look at your watch, we want you to see the passion for perfection that drives us.
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Geneva stripes:
precision in patterns.
On some models, either on the dial side or the back of the movement, we apply the traditional decoration of Geneva stripes. Using a lathe, the watchmaker carefully guides an abrasive disc over the movement plate, moving it at a constant speed and angle to ensure a uniform finish. The goal is to receive crisp lines that run over a smooth and flat surface, with no material visibly removed.
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Straight-grained sides: linear precision.
A linear decoration is sometimes the best complement to components with long sides like our distinctive finger bridges. Straight graining on the flanks of the bridge, achieved by gently scraping diamond paper against the workpiece, can act as the perfect visual counterpoint to the shiny hand-polished bevel around the edges.
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Straight graining: the science of satin.
We apply straight graining to the top surfaces of components, giving them a linear satin finish with a subtle sheen. Like side graining, this effect is achieved by meticulously scraping diamond paper against a workpiece by hand.
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Surface textures: the chemistry of contrast.
The brilliance of polished components becomes even more striking when contrasted with matte textures. That’s why we employ a variety of matte finishing techniques. Hand-applied sandblasting gives components a fine matte finish while hand-frosting creates a coarser texture as specialists rub the surface with abrasive pastes, grains, or glass pearls. The delicate art of tremblage is performed by hand engravers, who use chisels to craft tiny embossments, adding a soft, sparkling texture.
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Perlage: constellations of circles.
Often found on our main plates, perlage is a “fish scale” pattern of overlapping circles created by the watchmaker using a hand-operated drill press. The technique involves lowering a rotating abrasive rod onto the component surface multiple times. Applying perlage by hand allows us to adapt the pattern to the condition of each component. If there are traces of machining that need extra attention to make them disappear with perlage, we can decide how much material we want to remove.
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Circular graining:the geometry of motion.
Our rotating components, like gears, are finished with circular graining. Instead of stamping, we use profile-turning for precision, creating circular patterns that we refine by hand, rotating each gear against diamond paper. This level of attention enhances the circular graining, making it stand out. The process requires exceptional skill, as the circular-graining specialist must manually gauge the pressure to achieve a consistent aesthetic across all the gears. Each component must look identical to maintain the harmony of the overall movement.
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Sunburst finish: capturing light's movement.
Using a lathe and an abrasive tool, our watchmakers enhance the surface of components with a sunray brushing. This striking decoration captures the light with its dramatic, sweeping lines, making each component that has it stand out visually.
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Hand engraving: where art meets metal.
Using steel burins and wax-coated holders, our engravers transform each workpiece into a one-of-a-kind creation. Working meticulously from their original drawings, they engrave each motif with precision, all while working under a microscope.
